SPIX 30 0-63 Sub-Picture Contrast (Picture) Y-DC 0 0-15 BLACK background level retentionĪXIS 0 0-15 Cleans up the red & oranginess in yellow VZOM 0 0,1 Places Bars on Picture to give 16x9 Area VUSN 0 0,1 Shrinks Vertical Height to 16x9 Area HTRP 8 0-15 Keystone correction, horizontal lines HKEY 6 0-15 Keystone distortion, horizontal lines PPHA 7 0-15 Keystone correction vertical lines LPIN 10 0-31 Pincushion lower ends, vertical lines UPIN 10 0-31 Pincushion upper ends, vertical lines Initially HOSC is set to 7 (factory default), you'll need to change it to about 11 - this will eliminate the color banding in the picture. If you have a XBR250 and you're experiencing horizontal blue, green or red banding across the screen with a component video connection, you will need to enter service mode and adjust the HOSC parameter. = Leave Service Mode any settings not written will be in effect until TV is unplugged or a Reset is performed.īEFORE storing NEW settings - unplug TV from wall, wait a few seconds, then plug back in, turn TV set on - All settings not written will have been lost.ĪFTER storing NEW settings - restore original value from list you made of original values before adjustments and store in NVRAM. followed by = Read Default service mode value from stored settings. followed by = Restores All *USER* settings to factory defaults Trying to remove it without could damage the cap, and the CRT connection.Followed by = stores NEW service mode settings to NVRAM Incidentally, for anyone else reading this in the future - if you have a similar issue and the device has a control on it, this means that the EHT lead and cap is coaxial, this requires a special tool to remove, which is an SRBP wedge/fork type device that squeezes the outer coaxial connections together to unhook them (we used to have a handful of them sat in a draw at work). Let it set - I would give it overnight, then you should be good to go. This should give you a nice clean hole, with good adhesion - fill this with epoxy resin (5 minute epoxy glue), and fill it proud with a nice dome on the outside. I would then grind the offending area away carefully with a Dremel, as the plastic probably has a carbon track burnt in it, and you need to get rid of that - go as deep as required to get rid of it all, without damaging the component inside the plastic. Then clean the faulty component really well with alcohol, IPA or something similar - then discharge the CRT again (they tend to self recharge - so keep doing so occasionally). The shock from EHT isn't particularly 'dangerous', as it's too low a current - but falling over and breaking your neck as a result is just as fatal. If you remove the cap, then fit a croc clip lead from cap to the aguadag wire/spring to keep that discharged, and do the same with the end of the EHT lead. One to the aquadag, then slide the other across that one and underneath the anode cap - that cap should be a single connection, so no problems. I'd be inclined to try and seal the leak, see if you can cure it that way - first job, make sure the CRT is discharged - standard TV engineer way is two screwdrivers. As I suspected, it's either a discharge resistor, or a high voltage capacitor - the set would work fine without it, but you've then got the issue of what to do with the wires, how to join them, and how to prevent that join arcing.
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